Adjusting High Work Drive to House Dog - Page 2

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hunger4justice

by hunger4justice on 17 June 2011 - 15:06

Sending your dog "away" for training will not correct the dominance issue between you and your dog.  Just because he is "trained" and knows the commands does not mean he will accept them from you.  I have had to rescue too many dogs in this situation.  Without being mean, the one that also needs training is you. 

There are some good videos at Leerburg about dealing with dominant dogs.  Though if you can find a good trainer (not one that is trying to break your dog by hitting, hanging, etc.) that will help you.  Try to join a club in your area.  Further you cannot be wishy washy ("I don't want to get knocked down") and give in because the dog can sense your tentative mood and your hesitation and they will see this as lack of leadership.  I have a large fenced backyard and I walk my four (three high drive dominant unfixed and one alpha formerly red zone rescue female) every single day for the purpose of excerting leadership even more than excersize.  Also you have to satisfy the prey drive by throwing the ball etc.  several times a day.  (One of my males will try to drop a ball in my hand if I even get up at 4 am to pee)  Then it will be easier to tell them to go lie down or send them to their place.  The destructiveness will end if you satisfy the drives and the other bad behavior will end when your dog accepts that you are the leader which sending him away wil not accomplish.

hunger4justice

by hunger4justice on 17 June 2011 - 15:06

Oh, and all four of my dogs are in the house and not kenneled.

Chaz Reinhold

by Chaz Reinhold on 17 June 2011 - 16:06

Your title says "Adjusting High Work Drive to House Dog", but have you considered the house needs to adjust to the dog, as well? People buy certain breeds and expect the dog to conform to their lifestyle instead of buying the right dog for their situation. I wouldn't buy a chihuahua if I was looking for an active dog to run with, so why would I buy a working dog and not have a job for him to do. That's like buying a dragster to drive 25mph on Sundays. What's the point? I have a pup about a month older than yours. If he doesn't get worked, he is miserable to live with. He WILL find something to do. I just finished tracking and he's "resting" up in his kennel while I do a couple things before we do a little play/obedience. Later, we'll do the play/obedience again. Tomorrow, we'll go to the club. Maybe Sunday too. Monday and Tuesday, the same as today. Wednesday at the club. Thursday the same as today, and over and over. This is what I wanted. If it wasn't, I would think about finding a home where the dog fit. I've done it before when I had too many dogs and I didn't want to see a good dog go to waste. If your kid could throw a 95 mph fastball, would you tell him to stop because you are too busy/lazy to take him to little league? Hell no! You're gonna give that kid every outlet to utilize his God given talent.

Micaho

by Micaho on 17 June 2011 - 18:06

I agree with both hunger4justice and Chaz.  Sending the dog for training will not improve our relationship.  I really am looking for advice on how I can work with his drives and provide adequate exercise.  We go out 3 times daily about 1/2 mile each time on a pinch collar walk and he works like a pro.  Then he does some ball chases and training.  I believe this isn't enough so I am interested in other forms of stimulation.  To suit my own limitations (which exist regardless of how committed I am to keeping this dog), I am looking for games like "search" which will not require alot of equipment.  I am sure you all have favorite activites which expend the dog's  energy more than yours!
I think alot of people believe, because GSDs are smart, that the dog will adapt to any lifestyle.  Breeders do not always discourage this expectation and multiple dogs end up needing new homes.  Experienced GSD owners love the dogs for their working drives and wouldn't want them any other way.  I would like to find a way to enjoy my puppy as a companion in my home without his becoming frustrated and anxious, sort of a compromise, which is why I am looking for suggestions as to what works for the rest of you.  I want to change the way I do things to bring out the best in my dog.  Reading your comments on this and other topics has really been encouraging! 

Chaz Reinhold

by Chaz Reinhold on 17 June 2011 - 18:06

A dog can do a 1/2 mile walk in his sleep. Physical stimulation is definitely needed, but mental will wear a dog down faster, and I think you know that. When I said play/obedience, I mean that I go out and build drive, make him think and work for it through obedience, and will play the 2 ball retrieve, where after a few times he will have RUN much more than 1/2 a mile. Sometimes I do the long down after this or in the middle or at the beginning.

Micaho

by Micaho on 17 June 2011 - 21:06

Chaz,
Walking 1/2 mile off lead or on a loose lead isn't far, but we were told that a controlled walk next to or behind us was more tiring for the dog because of the discipline involved.  Not true?  That's why we play ball before or after, but I have also been told chasing balls leads to injuries and being as obsessed as my dog is with the ball is also unhealthy.   You can see how one can get confused!  My dog will sit and down waiting for the throw.  Not so much stay!   Any other ideas of what I can include during these sessions?
In any case we will be walking further as much as possible.  The Monks suggested running dogs behind a car in their book, but I don't think that's advisable if there's a chance the dog might then chase any car.  Also, if ball chasing addresses the prey drive, does it increase prey when you don't want it, such as with my cats?  I guess that's where the obedience comes back in!
All information is appreciated!

by beetree on 18 June 2011 - 00:06

Micaho, I can see how you are confused!
I think the cat thing is internal and some will tolerate some cats, but not all will tolerate all cats. (I have a cat, too.) You find that out for yourself.

The ball thing, will ALWAYS be there. It is up to you whether you use it as a reward for behavior. Most think this is a good thing. Obsessions, of course need to be discouraged, and that means you control when it is there, or not, all the time. If you see obsessive behavior like going after round rocks, you need to stop that and bring out the real ball.

As far as Search: My pet dog knows how to search EACH kid I have. I'm pretty sure it is an air scent thing, and the dog and kids LOVE IT. I would recommend it for a "thinking exercise".

Good luck, you seem determined to make this work. Remember too, in time maturity WILL make it easier. Trust me on this. 
wink


 

troublelinx

by troublelinx on 18 June 2011 - 12:06

He will calm down in 3 to 4 years.  Just be patient.


by brynjulf on 18 June 2011 - 14:06

Excersise x 20!   Is there anywhere you can run him behind a car in your area?  We have tons of logging roads here.  My normal routine includes a 5k run in the am, a 12 KM  run behind the car and then another 3k at about 8 pm. For running with a car, atv etc make sure the dog is behind you at all times.  I keep about 50 feet between us. I have to drive 25 KM an hour to stay ahead of the crew.  I slow down when they do but often the whole run is that fast.    There is absolutely no way I could physically do this much .  Even with this routine, they are always ready to go more.  A treadmill would be great but not in the budget this year.

Red Sable

by Red Sable on 18 June 2011 - 17:06

Oh my goodness, I dont' do anywhere near that, wouldn't you wear the pads right off of their feet?





 


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