How do i add speed to my recalls/retrieves? - Page 2

what i would do .... forget the recall or the retrieve .. theach the dog "how to place" ./. not place as in platz... but exactly how you want it to be pysically ... e.g - fuss means' get beside me , left side , shoulder to knee , whether i am standing , walking , talking .. circling , jumping doesn't matter ... fuss is  fuss !! .. same concept ... teach the dog to postion in front of you toe to toe preferably looking up to your face.. .. you can do this by shaping the behavior exactly so .. then pair a word to that behavior !!.. let's use  the word 'place '-- if you step back and say place .. the dog presents exactly in position , you move to the right or left and say place , the dog should 'place' in the exact position .. "place" means one and only one thing ... haven taught that 'place ' when the dog comes to you on a recall before it slows down [ and you can start at a short distance and help it with a long line if need be] say place .. the dog if taught correctly should go into 'place position' /.. what you are doing is teaching 2 exercises , the recall and the place and then pairing them together .. after much practice you can  phase out the word place and have the two behaviors become 1. .. one last woed .. dogs don't unlearn behaviors but can be taught new bewhaviors .. another option would be to change your command for the recall and teach a new behavior replacing the old recall routine with a new rescall routine .. e.g if you used "HIER" as the command..then  teach something new , a new behavior , but after it is taught/ shaped  the word to use would now be ; KOME [ come]

Assuming your placement is down, and you only need to pick up
the pace. There are 2 things for GSD....not Malinois.

You build speed like any athlete, run your dog to build muscles.
Fast twitch. The other is hold off a day on training for rest. Than try.

With my Mals I have just the other problem, I have to bring the level
down and soften them before I work them. But I run them to burn off
some manicky energy. So they are better focused.

RS,
          If your dog is running up on you....he may love his Mom
to much. I would use a finger kick to get him to back it off a
bit. But it sounds like you have a good dog.
Your finger kick will help alot. There is a  difference in a small buz
and a big buz. Find some one you feel is good with one and some one
you trust. The thing I would never do is turn my dog over to a knucklehead.
With this device. It is a very good tool. fast, not abusive if used properly and you get results.
But if that is not your choice, a trainer can slow him down with you. I only suggest the finger
kick, so you can have some tools to work with.

yeh for the ball under the legs works GREAT. but not in a bad way, once your dog gets taller.. im too scared of getting bagged by my dog.. im 5"11 and my puppy is 6 1/2 months old. and hasnt fully grown haha..

i like sit in motion and moving from left to right MOLLYANDJACK.

great advice, that was my plan for this week at home training.

The best recall I ever saw was Buck.. Glen Bennetts dog. Sue remembers Buck.
Buck did very well  aginst the best dogs ever to compete in the last 20 years. 
Glenn would down Buck at full speed in training. Buck was good around
strangers and children, but was a very serious dog. Super fast.

The one guy I think who could help just about anybody with the recall
is Dean Calderon.....In fact he could be a big factor in putting the USA team
in first place at the WUSV 2011 if he had the time and place to organize something.
Dean and Gary are both hard nose realest in choosing what dogs and handlers
should be on the team.


Dean had to quit the band called The Ramones when he started competing .

The Dean joke was too old I could not update it...It is only
funny to me anyway....Sorry Dean.
He always reminds me of the Ramones...Rock'n'roll High School?
Either way Dean is one of the best you will come across at high
level competition. And he likes to teach people....and he is very good at it.

Great Ideas by the way..

Is there another way than putting the ball under the chin. I tend to get ticklish. Its a trust issue. I believe its genetics. Anyway, I see people put it under their armpits but then again I have this obsessive sweating disorder which I'm getting treatment for. Would one of those jackets help I can Velcro the ball on the chest and then I can reward the dog there?

Thanks in advanced.

Have seen the ball under chin result in a final position of canines in chin.....OUCH

Sometimes use the whip when you call him that builds a lot of drive in my dog

I used retrieves for bite rewards with my female.  I got more speed by exploiting what she desires most...the bite.  The faster she did what I want the quicker she gets what she wants.  PM me if you want to see a video.