Collar - Page 2

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Hedi

by Hedi on 14 March 2011 - 21:03

RLHAR, yes my guess is also only hypothecial on the negative behaviors that could develop based on past experiences.  So did you mark (with verbal or clicker or whatever), and put a verbal on it when it happened?  I have to assume that there was some way that what was done with the two dogs had some way of translating on the field to a bark?   Or? 
Lee, I will try this at home barking thing.  I think I will not use the doorknob though, we ripped one out a few weeks ago and I have been told by my spose to work the dog outside..lol.  I will use a tree.  I will let you know how it goes. 

I am still at a loss with the prong suggestion and the rationale of why and how that is the way to go...when there are clearly other ways that would create less potential conflict in the dog who is still building a foundation.  In this situation I think the risk outweighs the benefit....   

poseidon

by poseidon on 14 March 2011 - 22:03

Hedi as regards to the prong. I say trust your gut instincts.  I agree with you that a prong is totally inappropriate for your young dog in bite work development stage.  The prong may be an added stimulus for more advance learning dog certainly not young dogs.

If your dog is swinging and jumping at the helper and wasting energy, try holding the leash shorter until she is more focused on the helper.  If your dog is not barking naturally when the helper is present try giving her a cue and reward with the bite. 

poseidon

by poseidon on 14 March 2011 - 22:03

Also I meant to add......why isn't the helper using the tug/ burlap on a string to entice the prey bark before transfering to bite pillow etc?

RLHAR

by RLHAR on 14 March 2011 - 23:03

I marked with verbal encouragement since I was at a distance with my bitch.  

The helper was also quick to work between both him and her.  There were other factors engaged as well.

alboe2009

by alboe2009 on 15 March 2011 - 03:03

Here's a prime example of different methods attempting to gain the same result. (Don would be proud).

Anyways, RLHAR? Did you happen to get a video? If not, no problem. Maybe next time you or someone can. Don't understand the decoy's rationalization for getting a prong collar on after that situation? My male, Reiker, was on a prong at six mos and still is (he's 9) Just seeing or hearing the prong collar and he's bouncing off the walls anticipating training. He also wears a 4" agitation collar and a harness.  

Now are you saying your dog doesn't bark or very little barking anytime or just on the field or in training? Here are some ideas; If you don't have any puppy tugs or such get a burlap/jute bag and roll it tight into a "log" Now tie the pup to a tie out post. No prong, but an agitaion collar or a harness. Now work on building his drive and frustration. Don't exhaust him by depriving the reward. But work on this.

When I taught Reiker" to "bark" or the "I'm going to rip you to shreds" bark I started on the tie out post. Then I taught him to "be very vocal" by winking or clicking my teeth. (He was supposed to go K9 but my department didn't want to have K9s).  I will have him sit (to teach) in front of me. Whatever he loves; stick, ball or bone. I'll hold it above my head that way he sees me face. Now I'll frustrate him till he barks and then he gets what he wants. Once he has got that down now I hold whatever the object in the crook of my neck and he focuses more on my face. once he starts barking now I brought in the wink and the clicking. Once he has those down now he is at my side/heel and learns there. Once he has that now it's whatever distance I choose. Now without saying a word he will bark on command. He can be there going to town, fangs agoing, foaming and spit flying all over the place.   

RLHAR

by RLHAR on 15 March 2011 - 04:03

Alboe,

I do have video but I'm not brave enough to share it on this place. 

Also I believe you're addressing the OP but if you were talking about a prong on my male, tie him out on a harness only and have just started to have his prong on him for when I out the sleeve.  My male is 17 months now and he's starting to really get into the game, he likes to come back at me a little when I make him give up his toy.  Nothing major, just a little sass so I have the prong on him for out and to keep his teeth pointed at the helper.

But for the actual work, he's on a harness.

alboe2009

by alboe2009 on 15 March 2011 - 04:03

RLHAR,

My fault got the posts flip flopped. And yeah, popping a video up might be like throwing a chicken to the piranhas. But at least you'll hopefully get some good feedback.

RLHAR

by RLHAR on 15 March 2011 - 04:03

Alboe,

No disrespect to any member here, I've met some folks face to face and really like them!

That said, my training director and my helper are on the ground, seeing the dog every week.  They give me very good feedback and I'm thrilled with every step we've taken with him so far.

I don't feel the need to reach out across the internet, where too much can get misinterpreted when the whole picture simply can not be seen.  I've posted some general musings about what's gone on with this dog and a couple moments of gleeing with delight over his progress but for feedback, I'll reach out to the people who can actually put a hand on the dog.

alboe2009

by alboe2009 on 15 March 2011 - 05:03


Lexa

by Lexa on 15 March 2011 - 14:03

I second RLHAR. The prong is there to hold the dog back, frustrating him and channeling that frustration into barking instead of pulling and dragging on the normal collar ( and also, so he doesn't choke himself). However, I don't know how old your dog is, Heidi nor what type of dog she is.   I've seen this method work many times and it may seem painful or cruel but I think it's better for the dog, rather than pulling and possibly injuring/collapsing the wind pipe.   There are many ways to train a dog, so it depends on how you go about it...
 





 


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