IPO Training Order - Page 1

Does anyone have a particular list or order in which they train the IPO routine?
Vonrivera

Break up all behaviors in little pieces and build a solid, quality foundation.
I don't train all ob behaviors at one time, same with protection. Have a good foundation and all the pieces will fall together quickly when you start introducing them.

Thank you hntrjumpr! I understand the concept, but am just looking to see if someone had a rough outline of the order of which "part" they teach, in order, and why.
Vonrivera

In obedience the basics are the recall, heeling, sitting in front of you, and a little later sitting beneath you. Puppies/green dogs normally learn these commands easily and without pressure. I also teach the command "out" as soon as possible - always as a game - the dog knows it will get the item back ( very important for a focussed bark and hold later on ).

I train all of the official commands on its own: sit, down, stay, jump, bark on command, retrieve, voraus, revier ...
Later on it´s time to combine the commands like hntr said.
In case you don´t want to teach the "forced apport" ( most dogs don´t need it ) you should start this part of IPO as soon as possible, because it takes the most time.
The "stay" command may be teached later, because it´s not part of the IPO1 routine, and some young dogs are confused with sit, down, stay too soon ( so this depends on the dog and your training skills ).

Tracking as soon as possible, articles later on.

Bitework as soon as possible, too, to improve the drives, to teach the bark and hold ( if teached properly, it´s a game for your dog ), and in case your dog already learned the "out" command, the dog will know it has to out, but will get the item of desire back seconds ( later on minutes ) later.

Good luck!

Susie's overall described approach works and is commonly used. Except, in my case, I teach articles first, then tracking. The primary advantage is that the dog is less likely to miss articles or fall for cross tracks, however, this may affect the dogs method for solving the tracks and could result in point deductions because the dog is really tracking and not following an obedience routine.

Pending on your goals, you may want an obedience tracking behavior and not a true scentwork behavior. Its always been my experience that you can teach a dog to solve and work out tracking problems OR teach them an obedience routine to score well. You can teach most dogs either one or the other, few dogs can do both.

There has been at least one well known case, at nationals, when the track layers did not follow standard procedure and in addtion, the grass was taller than usual, as a result all the dogs did poorly.  However, had just one of them been trained in real scentwork, such a dog would have taken the top spot in that phase, despite having defeicent "obedience style" tracking behaviors.

On a side note, I don't think that is likley to happen again because the track layers rules and training has been standarized since then, with the primary goal of sanitizing any possibliy for varied tracking conditions.

To begin with you must develop Drive in the dog...You need to Promote Drive...At the same time you can use Motivational Techniques to do so...
Once the dog is Driving for whatever you use...Toy (Ball) or Food it becomes much easier to teach what you want them to do...
With puppies it's great to start them early but you can't put too much pressure on them until they mature...(depending on the puppy)...You introduce them to new things...
You develop a program for your puppy/dog according to what experience...time...and what your puppy/dog can handle...But introducing a puppy early is to your advantage...
Some of the things you're asking are much easier to show you rather then tell you...No one can tell you how much pressure your puppy/dog can take without seeing them and/or maybe handling them...

~Bob~

Momo, I don´t understand your post.

We start to teach tracking very early ( 12 weeks+ ), and the dogs learn to track, not to be obedient at that point.
There is no "obedience routine" involved, but a lot of drives. It´s "real scentwork", the dog has to find the track by himself without help ( 2 angles, 4 angles, 6 angles, 7 angles, direction left/right always differs ).

Which part of IPO tracking do you call "obedience tracking" ? Every dog needs to be obedient during a trial, otherwise the dog won´t pass. Even a dog that learned to search by air scent, in some cases without leash, needs to be obedient, otherwise the dog will fail, too.

As soon as a handler and a dog are going to participate on a tracking trial, no matter which trial, the dog needs to be obedient ( and he needs to be able to track first and foremost ).

IPO tracking is different than air tracking, but it´s tracking, too, not obedience.

@susie, your style of training may result in real tracking behavior, I am not discounting that, but there are many trainers in the USA that are not teaching the dog to do real scentwork. To sum it up as briefly as possible, they are teaching a type of sightwork, combined with strict body posturing, that punishes air scenting (hence, more obedience based than scentwork based). 

 

I guess this kind of cheating does occur in any kind of training style, not in IPO exclusively.
In case I want to "lie" a dog through a track, I am able to do this with a dog nose down or nose up.
In case I am participating on a "real" IPO 2/3 trial ( not even talking about IPO FH ) no cheating possible...
People should train instead of cheat, and some "trainers" should go back to school.

The easiet way to tell if an IPO titled dog is truly capable of doing scentwork is to run them in a practice STp (Stöberprüfung). You would be surprised how many IPO3 dogs are absolutely INCAPABLE of finding a single article within the allotted time (especially when compared to a titled AKC TD/TDX dog that has never run the STp1 before, yet can still work out where the articles are).