Chance Mapet - protection 4 months - Page 2

Pedigree Database


by Centurian on 15 June 2019 - 14:06

Sorry I do not have any videos ....

Hund - I start my puppies if possible at 8 weeks old , or if import them 9, 10 weeks old . That is to say as soon as possible . Hund- My meaning is that I do not defense young dogs until they are ready and I certainly do not challenge by the will / defense puppies.

Apple - as usual a nicely written post .

Vome .. I will share with you a few of my ideas , for lack of a video presentation : hope I hlep a bit ..

No matter working line , show line , I have had both throughout my life , I start a puppy in every discipline right away at 8, 10 , 12 week pups . Realize nthat it is not just what we do with our pups but also the how , and why we do things with the pup. I will have the pup run through water in a baby swimming pool for a bite , through a tunnel , up on a fence , on stairs , on my coffee table , through and on a tire , on a ladder . I have them bite when I lightly throw an object[s] such as a water bucket or a toy around them . [ However *** , I know they have the steress level to handle this , of course ] . They bite running through a water sprinkler , through and over objects. . Anything scenario that I can think of [ of course with always keeping the pup safe] they get to bite . At that age I will have the dog bite on any and all parts of my body [ except my face of course ] while , standing , lying down , sitting . While I move , while I am still . I interact with the pup anywhere , anytime . I use right from the start different articles , shapes and textures for the pup to bite . Call this default , imprinting ... whatever...

I emphasize one thing at a time in an interaction . So without pressure I teach the pup that I want it to to bite fast , hard and with it's fullness on an object . In addition I teach the pup to do that as it enters into and onto my body fast - This is simple : I use a flirt pole that has no more than four feet of line and the pole is not way to long . A handle that I can very very easily maimpilate the rag , or tug . I bring the article as the pup chases it from me a about 6 feet away [ including out stretched arm] to me quickly and onto me in a safe way , avoiding the puppy crashing into me for a bite. I may lean away and as I bring the rag up onto the side of my leg. Years ago we used to tie bands of material around our legs and just simple leave the pups alone and as we walked let the pups jump up on us to bite the ties of clothing. But we never pulled the pups off - use another piece waiving it with your hand on the gound, to get the pup off. Sorry, I have no videos - I do not promote myself therefore I didn't make videos to out out there for eveyone. Nor was /is it ever my style to demo my dogs to show off ..Also ,I don't do videos to promote business as most other people do . So I hopoe this gives you abit of guidance.

What I have found ... is that people make issues and not the dogs. [ aside from their genetics that is ] . People challenge the dog instead of teaching the dog . I never ever ever test a dog [ I don't mean that I do not evaluate dogs] . I never say " I wonder if the dog has the ability or will to do this " . Either I know the temperament and potential of that dog or I do not . And If I do not think the dog will do something that I want , I don't TRY it and set the dog up to fail . Always set the situation up to have the dog be seccessful. The other aspect that I shafre : I do one , two ,,three , four , exact absolute performance , and I stop . A few absolute correct executions of the dog IMOp is worth more than a half hour of a half baked session with a mix of good and bad perfromace. No mmatter what I do interact with a dog , a few correct minutes and that is it, done . Besides I don't bore the dog . it is always enjoyable and what the dog loves to do . I mix it up and don't do the same thing over and over. Many many many interactions , a minute here and there . Also this teaches the dog : we perform any palce , any time ...

Many years ago there was the notion to not work dogs until they matured. IMOp , if startied a dog even at 4 months old , I have wasted valuable time teaching . As I started to write , right away I start teaching an 8 week pup everything*** : how to come to me , how to go out [away] from me, sit/down/stand/ and in those hold those postions , Attention , heeling , track scenting [ of I do Sch /IPO ] , stick hitting --- yes I already am getting the pup used to be tapped /hit by objects. A few weeks later muzzle conditioning and agility , walkng up boards , slight hopping over objects , going onto place pads and so on . Bite work at 10 weeks I already am teaching to bite hard , fast and full bite grip . I work on entry into all parts of body for bite too . At 4 months time this pup already has already learned much , including the begginings of food refusal from strangers. Many times by the time the dog is 1 year old it is ready for Sch 1 or Brevet and Ring 1 . Something that IMOp it is very important : to balance everything out and teach impulse control when the dog is young. I do not mean flatten the dog out .. I mean of the dog bites full , hard , fast .. and the dog is at least 20 weeks old , we can also teach the dog to let go of something , to leave something alone , too . Sometimes I condition this in flirt pole interation . How.. I use two flirt pole. So when the PUP DECIDES *** , again when the pup decides to let go of one rag on the pole for the other rag on the other pole in my other hand , at that exact moment I associate the word " AUS " . So . I stress one more time : I never ever ever ever , assert my will over a puppy . Later I refine this by 20 weeks old .

Apple brings up a good point : we can tell much from and about a dog by it's bark . And this is akin to understanding people using their voice.

What I want people to understand reading this post : there is not always ' this is The Way we train dogs" . What is important is to step back and ask : who and what is this dog , what is the purpose of this dog in that light , and what do I need to teach this dog if it has the potential to what I need the dog to do to accomplish a goal . If you need a PP dog , then you must apporach that certain specific dog in a different way , compared to a dog that you just want to do sport with and compete with . If you want LE dog then I approach this differently than a PP or Sport dog. However I have the same notion with all dogs : I start teaching the foundation with the dog as early I can and I bring out the potential and skill the dog has for it's purpose . One avenue is not better or worse : they are just different puproses for different talent/bents of dogs ... Nevertheless , they all invlove biting .

Apple .. I think you have a point : it is a shame that sport had polluted , unintentionally or intentionally the sense of a dog' ability to do real work . .


by Hundmutter on 02 July 2019 - 16:07

'S okay Eisenhaus, keep that stuff up for no good reason and YOU may soon not be 'still around' - just for the record, 11 others had reported your post abusive before I even saw it ...Cheers ! Linda.

by ValK on 03 July 2019 - 01:07

very interesting, especially funky tune in first video.
but i'm lost.
can someone point me to a moment in either first or second video where PROTECTION begin?

by duke1965 on 03 July 2019 - 05:07



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