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by tiffae89 on 20 May 2011 - 01:05
While I was working my dog today I realized the FASTER I move in a walking pace the better and more correct she is. I am trying to figure out how to keep a fast walking pace without killing myself. I am 5'0, so very short, meaning my stride is also VERY short. I am a jogger/runner but I have to basically jog to get her into such an amazing correct postition. (she is tall and long in the legs). Anyone have any suggestions? (Hubby said Miracle Grow but I doubt that will work. 
)
by Vixen on 20 May 2011 - 10:05
Hello, I can imagine that it is difficult walking at a faster pace that your stride does not actually suit. However, you do not want your dog to dawdle either!
If you are going to compete how long does a Heelwork routine last? You could cater towards that.
Therefore you could incorporate just a few minutes of Heelwork, going at a correct pace for your dog's stride, and to enable you to become accustomed to working her at the appropriate speed. Then do some alternative exercises (to help you rest again)!
Then you could always finish on a couple of more minutes of Heelwork, but this time incorporate going from that Normal speed to a sudden Slow speed to keep your dog attentive, then go back to Normal and then a short burst of Fast pace (you might consider that elongated Show type walk, used in Breed Showing, for the Fast pace) - then go back to Normal, and Halt.
So just a few minutes Heelwork, plus other exercises too inbetween, should help you not feel exhausted. Plus of course you know you are keeping fit as well. (Which you already do anyway by jogging).
Regards,
Vixen
If you are going to compete how long does a Heelwork routine last? You could cater towards that.
Therefore you could incorporate just a few minutes of Heelwork, going at a correct pace for your dog's stride, and to enable you to become accustomed to working her at the appropriate speed. Then do some alternative exercises (to help you rest again)!
Then you could always finish on a couple of more minutes of Heelwork, but this time incorporate going from that Normal speed to a sudden Slow speed to keep your dog attentive, then go back to Normal and then a short burst of Fast pace (you might consider that elongated Show type walk, used in Breed Showing, for the Fast pace) - then go back to Normal, and Halt.
So just a few minutes Heelwork, plus other exercises too inbetween, should help you not feel exhausted. Plus of course you know you are keeping fit as well. (Which you already do anyway by jogging).
Regards,
Vixen
by steve1 on 20 May 2011 - 14:05
You should not be having to keep up with your dogs pace it is you who is holding the leash or in charge so to speak, I am not over tall myself but the dog has to keep at the pace which is comfortable to me, We know it sometimes looks a little better with a brisk walk but only if that walking pace is suitable to you the handler, You being short it may not look so good at the fast pace because in effect you are being run off your legs by the dogs pace.
What you need to do is to walk as fast as is comfortable for you,
When you move off keep the dog on leash, a dog being trained should always be on leash otherwise you cannot correct it.
So move off walk 10 paces at your speed, NOT the dogs speed if the dog goes to move faster give a slight nick with the leash correction each time it happens a light leash correction NOT a hard one just bring your wrist down and you get a light correction. as i said 10 paces give the Ball play then again 10 paces give the ball. work up that way every time you give a light correction on the leash and the dog slows even for a second or two say Good Boy or Girl. However you must walk at the pace and speed you are comfortable with not what looks great with the dog and you are jogging to keep up That does not look good
Good Luck
Steve1
What you need to do is to walk as fast as is comfortable for you,
When you move off keep the dog on leash, a dog being trained should always be on leash otherwise you cannot correct it.
So move off walk 10 paces at your speed, NOT the dogs speed if the dog goes to move faster give a slight nick with the leash correction each time it happens a light leash correction NOT a hard one just bring your wrist down and you get a light correction. as i said 10 paces give the Ball play then again 10 paces give the ball. work up that way every time you give a light correction on the leash and the dog slows even for a second or two say Good Boy or Girl. However you must walk at the pace and speed you are comfortable with not what looks great with the dog and you are jogging to keep up That does not look good
Good Luck
Steve1
by Chaz Reinhold on 21 May 2011 - 03:05
Agree with Steve-o-rino, I'd worry more about positioning than pace. Pace comes after positioning. Go all the way back to the beginning and reward when in correct position and focus. Even if it two steps, then three, then five, the ten steps, reward. Don't worry about getting too far. Teach the right position from the beginning and then move on to pace. It's the same as something else I know. Without getting into the right position, you can't set a pace! ;). Find the right spot, then worry about the speed. Never reward for incorrect positioning. If you do, you will be correcting it forever. Have a club member video tape your session and watch it.
by Vixen on 21 May 2011 - 06:05
There is a difference between a dog taking the Owner during heelwork, which is a dog not listening, learning, understanding or being taught appropriately to recognise the heelwork position, and a whole different scenario, to the one presented by Tiffae, which I read as the Owner recognising and relating to the size and natural stride of their dog.
I have the impression that Tiffae's dog knows and holds position, but the contrast of their stride requires Tiffae to step out more pronounced to give her dog better opportunity to move more naturally.
If you see her adapting from fast to slow pace accurately and maintaining focussed position, then she as been taught and knows the required appropriate precise heel position, so her normal pace heelwork should then be a comfortable stride for her size. (A dog needing to dawdle, is not naturally comfortable).
My contrast of normal pace for a small or large dog will see an appropriate correct movement for those dogs. (For example Fast Pace with a small dog should not result in the small dog having to gallop)! Finding a good flowing pace for the stride of dog, does not mean (and most certainly should never mean) that the dog is taking the Owner - that would be a completely separate issue.
Regards,
Vixen
I have the impression that Tiffae's dog knows and holds position, but the contrast of their stride requires Tiffae to step out more pronounced to give her dog better opportunity to move more naturally.
If you see her adapting from fast to slow pace accurately and maintaining focussed position, then she as been taught and knows the required appropriate precise heel position, so her normal pace heelwork should then be a comfortable stride for her size. (A dog needing to dawdle, is not naturally comfortable).
My contrast of normal pace for a small or large dog will see an appropriate correct movement for those dogs. (For example Fast Pace with a small dog should not result in the small dog having to gallop)! Finding a good flowing pace for the stride of dog, does not mean (and most certainly should never mean) that the dog is taking the Owner - that would be a completely separate issue.
Regards,
Vixen
by steve1 on 21 May 2011 - 07:05
Gina can walk very well and in the postilion wanted by my brother, But he has an handicap that his left leg had a complete new knee last December, and in 1999 he nearly lost his right leg in a car smash, but it is plated from the Hip to the Knee and he has nerve damage in the lower part of that leg. the Plates can never be removed but have been there for over 20 years now
He is not so slick and mobile as he would like to be and he limps when he walks which is understandable,
So even though Gina walks well, he spends more time with short walks keeping her focused and giving her the ball, he uses a magnetic ball high up just below his shoulder
he tells the Dog when to take the Ball as he is walking along the word he uses is TAK. It took a little time to get the dog not to jump at the ball whist walking but she is very good now and waits for the TAK command
So although he walks at a reasonable pace the dog must adapt to his speed and the way he walks , NOT the other way around that is what tiffae89 must do
Steve1
He is not so slick and mobile as he would like to be and he limps when he walks which is understandable,
So even though Gina walks well, he spends more time with short walks keeping her focused and giving her the ball, he uses a magnetic ball high up just below his shoulder
he tells the Dog when to take the Ball as he is walking along the word he uses is TAK. It took a little time to get the dog not to jump at the ball whist walking but she is very good now and waits for the TAK command
So although he walks at a reasonable pace the dog must adapt to his speed and the way he walks , NOT the other way around that is what tiffae89 must do
Steve1
by Vixen on 21 May 2011 - 09:05
There are certain physical conditions/situations that require adapting between Owner and dog. (Even dogs walking with their Owner who must use a wheelchair). Your brother recognising his limitations due to walking mobility, is helping to train Gina accordingly.
However, not sure if there is a misunderstanding in reading the initial Post, and equally understanding between us what we mean by the responded suggestions.
I do not support Owners who allow their dog to surge or lag. Some Owners will walk slowly in order to appear that the lagging dog is walking to heel. Obviously this will not be successful, nor is a surging dog observing respectfully what is required from the Handler. So an Owner trying to keep up with a surging dog is equally of no gain.
My reply to Tiffae (and I was assuming her dog can do good heelwork - apart from inappropriate stride) was based on the following physical scenario. Which hopefully you will understand what I mean.
Handler has a Great Dane and a Chihuahua. Now the Handler starts walking the Chihuahua in FAST pace. The walk and stride would not be much to achieve this. But apply that same walk to the Great Dane, and it would probably be similar or less than a Normal pace. So for the Great Dane the walk and stride would need to be more pronounced to achieve a FAST pace. This adjustment would equally apply to SLOW and NORMAL pace for both dogs.
Obviously, unable to observe Tiffae and her dog, but if she were able to adjust to a faster walk (like speed walking), that may be all that is needed.
Regards,
Vixen
However, not sure if there is a misunderstanding in reading the initial Post, and equally understanding between us what we mean by the responded suggestions.
I do not support Owners who allow their dog to surge or lag. Some Owners will walk slowly in order to appear that the lagging dog is walking to heel. Obviously this will not be successful, nor is a surging dog observing respectfully what is required from the Handler. So an Owner trying to keep up with a surging dog is equally of no gain.
My reply to Tiffae (and I was assuming her dog can do good heelwork - apart from inappropriate stride) was based on the following physical scenario. Which hopefully you will understand what I mean.
Handler has a Great Dane and a Chihuahua. Now the Handler starts walking the Chihuahua in FAST pace. The walk and stride would not be much to achieve this. But apply that same walk to the Great Dane, and it would probably be similar or less than a Normal pace. So for the Great Dane the walk and stride would need to be more pronounced to achieve a FAST pace. This adjustment would equally apply to SLOW and NORMAL pace for both dogs.
Obviously, unable to observe Tiffae and her dog, but if she were able to adjust to a faster walk (like speed walking), that may be all that is needed.
Regards,
Vixen
by steve1 on 21 May 2011 - 11:05
No' a dog is not allowed to lag or surge in front, I am talking about a dog who is heeling perfectly well in the correct postilion as trained by the Handler, The way i read the OP is that the dog is heeling okay but has a long stride compared to the Handlers leg length and i think it means that if tiffae speeds up her pace they look better together.
However if you are a short legged person, Sorry for putting that way to keep up with her dogs pace she is jogging, So therefore needs to slow the dog down but still keep it in the same position of heeling that she is happy with, So my suggestion was to move off a few Strides and give the ball this way the dog will focus more on the handlers face and i do not think the Op mentioned if the dog was really focused on her or not
Really unless one sees it to give a true answer is difficult, But in every case no matter what it is
It is the Dog who adapts to the handlers walk or gait, not the other way around
If this does not happen then the handler will not feel right and he or she will be off balance and that is no good at all
Steve1
However if you are a short legged person, Sorry for putting that way to keep up with her dogs pace she is jogging, So therefore needs to slow the dog down but still keep it in the same position of heeling that she is happy with, So my suggestion was to move off a few Strides and give the ball this way the dog will focus more on the handlers face and i do not think the Op mentioned if the dog was really focused on her or not
Really unless one sees it to give a true answer is difficult, But in every case no matter what it is
It is the Dog who adapts to the handlers walk or gait, not the other way around
If this does not happen then the handler will not feel right and he or she will be off balance and that is no good at all
Steve1
by tiffae89 on 21 May 2011 - 15:05
I must have explained very poorly.... She is already in correct position and in focused heeling. She slows down and speeds up appropriately.
She doesn't lag or speed up ahead of me.
About a month ago we got our CD. The only real complaint from the judges I had was that my pace, in MY normal stride, was making my dog look uncomfortable, by default I had points deducted during the heeling exercise for walking too slow. We placed First (2) and Second (1) in 1 weekend. It was nice and correct, but it could have been better had I sped up. I don't want to be jogging in order to make her look "flashy", but I would like a slight more expression in heel and I can accomplish that by speeding up a tad to make us both look very natural and comfortable... expecially since I want to go for her BH in the near future.
She doesn't lag or speed up ahead of me.
About a month ago we got our CD. The only real complaint from the judges I had was that my pace, in MY normal stride, was making my dog look uncomfortable, by default I had points deducted during the heeling exercise for walking too slow. We placed First (2) and Second (1) in 1 weekend. It was nice and correct, but it could have been better had I sped up. I don't want to be jogging in order to make her look "flashy", but I would like a slight more expression in heel and I can accomplish that by speeding up a tad to make us both look very natural and comfortable... expecially since I want to go for her BH in the near future.
by tiffae89 on 21 May 2011 - 15:05
I guess in essance I'm trying to figure out how to teach myself how to speed walk without practically jogging. :) Learning my own middle ground between my own personal slow walk and jogging to make us both look natural.
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